YOUR GUIDE TO 
Successful Planting


Planting Trees and Shrubs

BEFORE YOU PLANT

It is important to select the proper plant for your site. Take into consideration the amount of space available for the plant, amount of light the plant will receive, and type of soil at the site. All these factors should weigh into the plant selection process. Remember to always call 811 at least 2 days before planting.

WHEN TO PLANT

If the soil is moist and kept sufficiently watered, planting can be done anytime the soil is not frozen. If possible, plant your tree or shrub as soon as you get it home. Otherwise, it may dry out and become injured. If you can’t plant it immediately, place it in a shady and/or sheltered location. Keep the soil moist until planted.

THE PLANTING HOLE

To plant a tree, dig a hole at least 2-3 times the width of the root ball. Do not dig the hole too deep! The hole should be the same depth as the pot or slightly higher –never deeper. The top of the root ball should be slightly above level with the surface of the ground. For shrubs, dig a hole 2-3 times as wide as the root ball and the same depth as the root ball. The top of the root ball should be level with the surface of the ground or slightly raised.

PLACING YOUR PLANT IN THE HOLE

Ease the pot off without disturbing the root ball. Cut any circling roots and place the root ball in the hole. If the roots are extremely compacted, you may need to make a few shallow cuts through the roots on the sides and bottom of the root ball.

ENRICHING YOUR SOIL & BACKFILLING

The clay soil of the Red River Valley will benefit with organic amendments. Add organic matter such as Dakota Sedge Peat, FoxFarm® Soil Conditioner, or Black Gold Organic Compost. Mix 50% native soil with 50% soil amendment. Mix well for proper drainage and water absorption. Backfill the hole with amended soil mix until about half full, straighten and level the plant and tamp the soil down carefully. Water, and then fill the rest of the hole with the amended soil. Use excess soil to build a ring 6-10” from the outside of the hole to create a holding well. Water will have the ability to collect in this well and move slowly down in the root zone of the plant as well as minimize runoff. Fill several times until the ground is saturated.

WATERING 

The mantra for watering newly planted trees, shrubs, and perennials is “infrequently, but deeply”. Your plant’s watering needs will vary greatly depending on the size and location of the plant, the temperature, and wind. Use the below guide to help determine watering needs.

AT PLANTING

Water deeply. Use the same amount of water as the container the plant came in. E.g. 10 gallon tree pot requires 10 gallons of water. 2 gallon shrub requires 2 gallons of water.

FOR THE FIRST MONTH

Check for water needs every 2 to 5 days. This will vary depending on the size and location of the plant, temperature, and wind. The soil should dry out before watering deeply again.

REMAINDER OF SEASON

As the plant establishes, watering will be less frequent. Continue monitoring watering needs. Expect to water about every 10 days.

BEFORE FROST

Once the temperatures drop and we are getting consistent light frosts, give your newly planted tree, shrub, or perennial its final watering. (Leaves on deciduous trees will have fallen.)

SECOND SEASON

Watering needs for the second growing season will be less, but continue to monitor, especially during dry periods and extreme heat.

STAKING & TREE PROTECTION

All newly planted trees should be supported by at least two stakes and two straps. This will prevent trees from being dislodged by high winds. Stakes should be driven firmly into the ground outside of freshly dug hole. Attach tree to stakes with straps approximately in the middle or slightly below the middle of the trunk. Straps should be attached to stakes with wire or non-stretch string. Make sure straps are snug, but not too tight. Allow tree room to grow. Remove stakes after one year. Tree guards placed on the trunk are important to protect against animals, lawn mower or weed trimmer damage, and sun scald. The tree guard should fit loosely on the trunk; over time, a larger tree guard may need to be installed. Evergreen plants such as arborvitaes should be watered deeply before frost and wrapped in burlap to prevent sun scald in winter months.

MULCHING

Add a 2-3” layer of shredded mulch or bark chips around the plant. This will prevent water loss and keep mowers and trimmers from getting too close to the plant. Avoid overly deep mulch up against the trunk or stems of the plant as this can promote disease or pest injury.

MULCHING

There is no need to fertilize your plants in the first year. After the first year you can fertilize your plants using either a slow-release fertilizer (Osmocote) or water soluble fertilizers. Follow directions on the package for application rates. It is recommended to fertilize woody plants after leaves have budded out (usually in May) through August 15th. Do not fertilize woody plants later than this to allow for them to harden before winter. Perennial and annual plants can be fertilized into the fall.


Planting Annuals & Perennials

Most perennials and annuals like well-drained soil, rich with organic matter. Soil for most perennials and annuals should be amended with Dakota Sedge Peat, FoxFarm® Soil Conditioner, or Black Gold Organic Compost and native soil 50% each. Incorporate organic matter into backfill. Once the soil has been prepared, place your plants around the planting area while still in their pots. Make sure you have taken into consideration the mature height of the plant as well as sun or shade requirements. Determine an approximate location for the planting then dig a hole in the amended soil. The hole should be 2-3 times the width of the pot or root ball and as deep as the root ball.

 

If the roots have grown out or become compacted against the pot or container, “feather” the roots out by using your fingers to gently pull the surface roots away from the root ball. This will encourage new roots to grow away from the root ball and out into the new soil. If the roots are extremely compacted, you may need to make a few shallow cuts through the roots on the sides and bottom of the root ball.

 

Place your plant into the hole, then backfill to ground level. Water the plant thoroughly to ensure the soil fills in completely around the roots, eliminating large air pockets. Monitor your annuals and perennials daily, watering as needed. Water slowly to attain deep-water penetration, which encourages widespread root development.  Add a 2-3” layer of mulch around the plant to help retain soil moisture. Avoid overly deep mulch up against the trunk or stems of the plant as this can promote disease or pest injury.